The world’s best train ride

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A Sri Lankan friend of mine once told me “the best thing the British did here was build the railways.” I was doubtful about this. My experiences on the Sri Lankan trains haven’t exactly been great. Like most of the transport available in Sri Lanka, the trains tend to be slow, crowded, and stressful. But over the last few years I started to hear tourists rave about the trains in the hill country, and on my recent trip to Ella, a small village in Sri Lanka’s highlands, I decided to give the trains a second chance and find out what all the fuss was about. The little train station in Ella seemed promising. It was full of the old English charm that I find quaintly pleasing. Flower beds lined the rails, and train conductors waved green flags as the trains came in. I had chosen to take the ‘observation carriage’ … read more

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The snake doctor

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Two French guys I recently met in Hikkaduwa decided to rent a tuk tuk from Colombo for the month, and invited me along for the ride. Unfortunately this time I was not able to hop on board as I am tied to my laptop with work. I was, however, able to spend a day with them, for what turned out to be more of an adventure than I had expected. Our original intention was to explore the city of Galle, starting in Unawatuna. As is usual with travel plans though, this never panned out. A few rasta guys in a bar in Unawatuna got talking to us about snakes, and we learned that there was a snake farm only an hour inland from Galle. “Snake farm is good. You go and ask for snake doctor,” one rasta guy told us. “The snake doctor?” we asked. “Yes yes best snake doctor … read more

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The tsunami that never came

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It happened at 2pm yesterday. I was working on my laptop in my room by the beach in Hikkaduwa when I heard a knock on my door. I opened the door to find my French friend waiting outside looking worried. “Did you feel that earthquake?” he asked me. I shook my head. “No,” I replied, “It came from Indonesia,” he told me “I think there could be a problem, and my friend is swimming in the ocean right now but I can’t find him. Do you know where he might have gone?” At first I didn’t realise quite what he was suggesting. I didn’t put the two things together. Why would an earthquake affect the ocean? I apologised and told him that I hadn’t seen his friend, and was about to close my door when my Sri Lankan friend Gayan showed up. “There’s been an earthquake,” Gayan said. “Yes, yes … read more

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Hikkaduwa Highlights – photos

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Hikkaduwa is one of my favourite places in Sri Lanka, although few people seem to agree with me on this. Many people pass through for just a few days at at time, get annoyed by the main road running through the tourist strip, and leave again. But Hikkaduwa has plenty of natural beauty if you are willing to look for it. So here are my favourite things to do in Hikkaduwa: Take a catamaran boat out on Hikkaduwa’s beautiful lagoon for a real sense of nature The lagoon river safari is so beautiful at sunset. It’s so quiet and peaceful out there, all you can hear is the gentle, rhythmic dip of the oar into the water.   Make the most of Hikkaduwa’s protected coral reef by going scuba diving or snorkling The reef at the far end of Hikkaduwa beach is perfect for snorkling, There’s tons of tropical fish … read more

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Sri Lankan courses: drum and surf lessons

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I’ve been living in Hikkaduwa on Sri Lanka’s South coast now for almost a month, and whilst I like to think that I am being productive, in all honesty I never really stray far from the beach. So in a bid to do something different, I decided to take on a few courses this week so that I could learn something new instead of just topping up my tan. Hikkaduwa is famous for its surf, so it made perfect sense for me to start surfing lessons here. Luckily for me, one of my Sri Lankan friends is a surf instructor, so I saved myself the $10 charge for a teacher and board rent and got my lesson for free. Even though I have tried surfing before, I’ve never had a proper lesson, and my last attempt had been an absolute disaster, so I was pretty nervous as I headed off … read more

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Road tripping – South to East coast of Sri Lanka

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Last week, armed with little more than a spare change of clothes and a toothbrush, my Italian friend, Luca, and I decided to take on the epic 318km drive from Hikkaduwa in the South coast, to Arugam Bay on the East. We had been told that there was going to be a huge party on the beach in Arugam Bay, but neither of us were willing to sit on a bus for 9 hours to get there. I had rented out a scooter to use for the month in Hikkaduwa, and keen not to let my money go to waste, I proposed the idea of taking a road trip. “You want to drive there on this little thing?”  Luca said with an eyebrow raised. “We need a motorbike if we want to make it there in time for the party.” My all-white scooter, aptly nicknamed ‘Ghost’ certainly didn’t look like … read more

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Sri Lanka update in photos

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So I’m back in Sri Lanka for the fourth time, picking up a little writing work here and there and visiting old friends. I first visited Sri Lanka in 2006, and I’ve been hooked ever since. This time I plan to explore a little further afield up into the North, so keep an eye out for updates. However, for the time being I am simply back in my old town of Hikkaduwa where I once lived, visiting friends. Here’s a quick update in photos: I spent my first few nights staying with an old friend, Praveen, in his parent’s home in Colombo. His mum makes the best rice and curry! I headed out with some of Praveen’s friends to check the nightlife in Colombo and ended up in a bar dancing to traditional Sri Lankan drum music where everyone picks up an instrument and joins in – so much fun! … read more

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Falling in and out of love with Malaysia

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Malaysia and I were off to a shaky start. The amazing food everyone had told me about in KL seemed to be non-existent, and my usually strong stomach was failing me after all the shitty street food I ate. Getting sick of the city I headed North to an island called Pangkor, hoping for some chilled out beach action. Instead I found a backpacker scene consisting of only couples, painfully capricious weather, and bars that were full of trafficked prostitutes from Iran. Just when things looked like they couldn’t get any worse, my biggest fear finally happened: I had a motorbike accident. In fairness I was fairly lucky, I managed to leap off the bike and escape with just a small scratch, but the bike fell down a hill and landed upside down with its engine ripped off. After having to shell out some cash to pay for bike repairs, … read more

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Packing list for a year abroad.

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Everyone has different needs when they are travelling, so there is really not one set list that can tell you what to pack. However I have decided to detail my packing list in order to help anyone who is struggling with ideas for how/what to pack. I will be backpacking my way through Asia this year, staying mainly in tropical countries, and I tend to pack light as I hate to be lugging round a big heavy backpack with me. Any extra bits that I might need along the way (hiking boots, mosquito nets, etc) can be bought/rented along the way, so I have just stuck with the basics. I strongly believe it is better to underpack than overpack, and I have never met anyone traveling who says “oh no I wish I had brought…” but I meet lots who say “I wish I hadn’t brought so much”. Some of … read more

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Snowboarding in South Korea

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In my previous article about whether or not it is worth visiting Korea in the winter, I mentioned skiing/snowboarding as one of the winter highlights. Since it was announced that Korea would be hosting the next winter Olympics, ski resorts all around the country have been sprucing up their image in preparation for it, meaning there couldn’t be a better time to come and try out winter sports here. On my second sponsored trip with travel and tour group Adventure Korea, I headed off to Phoenix Park in Gangwon-do province, one of the skii resorts that the winter Olympics will be taking place in. We headed down early on Saturday morning, arriving at the resort at just gone 11. Our skii/snowboard hire had already been arranged for us, so we only had to pop into the hire shop briefly to pick up some ski suits and buy waterproof gloves/goggles before changing gear and hitting the … read more

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