A Sri Lankan friend of mine once told me “the best thing the British did here was build the railways.” I was doubtful about this. My experiences on the Sri Lankan trains haven’t exactly been great. Like most of the transport available in Sri Lanka, the trains tend to be slow, crowded, and stressful. But over the last few years I started to hear tourists rave about the trains in the hill country, and on my recent trip to Ella, a small village in Sri Lanka’s highlands, I decided to give the trains a second chance and find out what all the fuss was about. The little train station in Ella seemed promising. It was full of the old English charm that I find quaintly pleasing. Flower beds lined the rails, and train conductors waved green flags as the trains came in. I had chosen to take the ‘observation carriage’ … read more



























